Last summer my mate’s Labrador cut his pad on a bit of broken glass at the park. Nothing dramatic. A small cut, a bit of blood, and one very stressed owner standing there with nothing but a poo bag and a lead. He wrapped the paw in a sock from his gym bag and drove to the vet. The dog was fine, but he told me later that the 20-minute wait in the car, watching his dog lick the wound, felt like hours. A basic pet first aid kit would have made that whole situation less chaotic.
That story stuck with me because it is so common. Most dog owners in the UK have no first aid supplies for their pet. We carry bags, treats, a ball, maybe a water bottle. But when something actually goes wrong, we are scrambling. The PDSA sees thousands of emergency cases every year where prompt first aid could have made a real difference before the dog reached the vet.
At dogfoodsuk.com, we spend a lot of time writing about what goes into your dog. Today we are talking about what you should carry for your dog when things go sideways. This is a practical guide to putting together a proper pet first aid kit, knowing how to use the stuff inside it, and understanding when a home remedy is fine and when you need professional help immediately.
Why every dog owner needs a first aid kit
Dogs get into trouble. That is just the reality of owning one. They run through brambles, pick up thorns, tread on glass, eat things they should not, and occasionally get into scrapes with other animals. Most of these incidents are minor, but even minor problems need some kind of response. A cut paw pad needs cleaning and bandaging. A grass seed in an ear needs tweezers. A tick needs proper removal, not a frantic fingernail pull.
The Blue Cross recommends that all pet owners keep a first aid kit at home and a smaller version in the car. The RSPCA says the same thing. It is not paranoia. It is basic preparation, like keeping a plaster box in the kitchen cupboard. You hope you never need it, but you are glad it is there when you do.
Think about where you walk your dog. Fields, parks, beaches, pavements. There are hazards everywhere. Glass, sharp stones, metal, thorns, ticks, bee stings, other dogs. If you walk your dog in the countryside, add adders, barbed wire, farm equipment, and livestock to the list. A lot of these situations are manageable if you have the right supplies and a bit of knowledge. Without them, you are just waiting for the vet to open or driving to an emergency clinic with a bleeding, stressed dog in the back of your car.
Having a kit also means you can help other dogs. I have seen dog owners at the park share bandages, tick removers, and antiseptic wipes with strangers whose dogs have had minor accidents. It is a decent thing to do, and it takes 30 seconds if you have the gear.
Essential supplies checklist for a pet first aid kit
Whether you buy a ready-made kit or build your own, these are the items you need. I have grouped them by what they do so it makes sense when you actually need to use them.
Wound care basics
Self-adhesive bandages (cohesive wrap, not sticky tape). You want the kind that clings to itself without sticking to fur. VetWrap is the brand most people know, but any cohesive bandage works. Get at least two rolls. Non-woven gauze pads for cleaning and covering wounds. Sterile saline solution for flushing out dirt and debris from cuts. Antiseptic wipes or a small bottle of antiseptic solution. Chlorhexidine is a good choice because it is safe for dogs and effective against bacteria. Avoid anything with alcohol because it stings and dogs will fight you. Microporous tape for securing gauze pads. Cotton wool balls for applying solutions and cleaning around wounds.
Tools
A pair of blunt-nosed scissors. You need these to cut bandages, gauze, and sometimes fur around a wound. Blunt-nosed is important because you do not want to accidentally cut your dog’s skin when they are wriggling around. Tweezers, the proper kind with a pointed tip, for removing splinters, thorns, and grass seeds. A tick removal tool. This is non-negotiable if you walk your dog anywhere with long grass or woodland. The RSPCA specifically advises against using fingers or tweezers to remove ticks because you risk leaving the head embedded, which can cause infection. A tick hook or tick twister is cheap and does the job properly. A digital thermometer. Rectal is the only reliable way to take a dog’s temperature. Normal is 38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celsius. A thermometer helps you know whether your dog actually has a fever or is just warm from running around. A pair of disposable gloves. You should wear these when dealing with wounds, especially if there is a lot of blood or you do not know what caused the injury. A small torch or penlight for checking ears, eyes, and wounds in poor light.
Medication and treatments
A mild antiseptic cream suitable for dogs. Do not use human antiseptic creams without checking the ingredients. Some contain substances that are toxic to dogs if licked. Ask your vet for a recommendation at your next visit. A small bottle of sterile eye wash if your dog gets something in their eye. Hibiscrub or a similar veterinary-grade skin cleanser for more serious wound cleaning. A small supply of any medication your dog takes regularly, enough for at least 24 hours beyond what you would normally need.
Practical extras
A muzzle. I know this one makes some owners uncomfortable, but hear me out. Dogs in pain often bite, even the gentlest ones. It is a reflex, not a personality change. A muzzle protects both you and your dog while you treat them. A soft muzzle that slips over the snout is fine for short-term use. A clean towel or blanket for restraining a dog, keeping them warm if they go into shock, or mopping up blood. A foil emergency blanket for the same reason. They weigh nothing and take up no space. A supply of poo bags, which double as improvised wound covers or glove substitutes. A notepad and pen for writing down symptoms, times, and details to relay to the vet. It is easy to forget things when you are stressed.
A pet first aid manual. The St John Ambulance offers pet first aid courses in the UK, and having a reference guide in your kit means you can check what to do rather than guessing. A waterproof bag or container to keep everything dry and organised. A plastic toolbox or a zip-lock bag inside a small rucksack works well.
Top dog first aid kits available in the UK
Lifesystems Dog First Aid Kit
Best for: Walkers and hikers who want a compact, well-organised kit that fits in a rucksack.
Lifesystems make outdoor safety gear, and their dog first aid kit reflects that. It comes in a neat, lightweight pouch that is designed to be carried on walks and trips. The contents are sensibly chosen for the kind of minor injuries dogs pick up outdoors: cuts, scrapes, thorns, ticks, and paw problems.
Inside you get cohesive bandage, gauze swabs, microporous tape, antiseptic wipes, a tick removal tool, tweezers, foil blanket, and a basic first aid guide. It is not a comprehensive kit for serious emergencies, but for day-to-day walks it covers the most likely scenarios. The tick remover alone makes it worth having in your bag.
The kit is widely available in the UK. You can pick one up from Amazon UK for around £20 to £25, which is reasonable for what you get. The pouch is tough and water-resistant, and it is small enough to fit in a jacket pocket or the side pouch of a walking bag.
Downside: The supplies are quite basic. There is no thermometer, no scissors, and the antiseptic wipes are individually wrapped which is handy but means you run out quickly if you use more than one. If you want a more complete setup, you will need to add a few items.
Kurgo First Aid Kit for Dogs
Best for: Dog owners who want a more comprehensive kit with a wider range of supplies and a proper organised case.
Kurgo is an American brand that is well regarded in the dog gear world, and their first aid kit is one of the more complete options on the market. It comes in a hard-shell case with labelled compartments, which is genuinely useful when you are rummaging through it in a rush. Everything has its place, and the case keeps it all protected.
The contents include bandages, gauze, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes, a tick removal tool, tweezers, scissors, a cold pack, gloves, and a pet first aid guide. The inclusion of scissors and a cold pack puts it a step above the Lifesystems kit. The cold pack is useful for sprains and swelling, which are surprisingly common in active dogs.
You can buy the Kurgo kit from Amazon UK for around £25 to £35. It is slightly bulkier than the Lifesystems option but still portable enough for walks and car trips.
Downside: The cold pack is single-use, which is a bit annoying. Once you activate it, that is it until you buy a replacement. The case is also quite rigid, which is good for protection but means it takes up more space in a bag than a soft pouch would.
Reliance Medical Pet First Aid Kit
Best for: Dog owners who want a kit from a recognised medical supplies brand and are happy to supplement it with a few extras.
Reliance Medical is a UK company that makes first aid supplies for humans, and their pet first aid kit brings that same professional approach to the dog world. The kit is packaged in a green pouch with clear compartments, and the contents are proper medical-grade supplies rather than the cheaper items you sometimes find in novelty pet kits.
You get cohesive bandage, gauze pads, triangular bandage (useful as a makeshift muzzle or sling), microporous tape, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, gloves, and a basic guide. It is a solid foundation that covers the essentials well. The triangular bandage is a nice touch because it has multiple uses and most other kits do not include one.
The Reliance Medical kit is available from Amazon UK and various online pet supply shops, usually for around £15 to £22. It is the most affordable of the three kits reviewed here.
Downside: No tick remover included, which is a significant omission for UK dog owners given how common ticks are. No scissors either. You will want to add both of these items. Think of it as a good base that needs a couple of upgrades to be truly complete.
Building your own dog first aid kit
Buying a pre-made kit is convenient, but building your own means you get exactly what you need and nothing you do not. It also means you can choose higher quality versions of each item. The pre-made kits tend to include basic, small quantities of everything. If you make your own, you can buy full-sized supplies that last longer and work better.
Start with a container. A small waterproof dry bag, a plastic lunchbox, or a dedicated first aid pouch all work. The key is that it needs to be easy to open with one hand and clearly labelled so anyone in your household can find it. Label it “Dog First Aid” in big letters. In an emergency, you do not want to be explaining to your partner which bag to grab.
Buy your supplies from a proper medical supplier or a veterinary shop rather than a supermarket. The quality difference is noticeable. A proper cohesive bandage from a medical wholesaler costs about the same as a cheap one from a chemist but sticks better, tears cleaner, and lasts longer in storage. Amazon sells veterinary-grade supplies in bulk, which is economical if you are kitting out more than one location.
Individual items worth buying separately include a dedicated tick removal tool like the O’Tom Tick Twister, which costs about £5 and is far better than the small plastic tick removers included in most kits. A proper rectal digital thermometer designed for pets is another item worth investing in. Human thermometers work, but pet-specific ones have a shorter probe and a more comfortable angle. You can find these on Amazon UK for under £10.
For bandages, buy a pack of 5cm cohesive bandage and a pack of 7.5cm cohesive bandage. Different sizes fit different parts of the dog. A small paw needs the narrower width. A leg or torso injury needs the wider one. Non-woven gauze swabs come in packs of 100 for a few pounds and will last you ages. Sterile saline in small 30ml pods is convenient because you just snap the top and squirt. A box of 20 costs about £6.
Keep a printed card inside the kit with your vet’s phone number, the nearest out-of-hours emergency vet, and the Pet Poison Helpline number. In a stressful moment, you do not want to be searching your phone for these while your dog is bleeding. If your dog has a GPS tracker, note the device name and app login on the card too, in case someone else needs to find your dog’s location in an emergency.
Check your kit every few months. Replace anything that has been used, check expiry dates on antiseptic products and saline, and make sure nothing has degraded. Bandages that have been sitting in a hot car for six months might not stick as well as fresh ones.
Common emergencies and how to respond
Cuts and wounds
Cuts are probably the most common minor injury you will deal with. Paw pad cuts are particularly frequent because dogs are constantly walking on rough surfaces, glass, and sharp objects. The approach is the same for most cuts: clean, assess, and decide whether you can manage it at home or need the vet.
Start by putting on your gloves. Flush the wound with sterile saline to remove dirt and debris. If there is something embedded in the wound, like glass or a thorn, do not pull it out if it is deep. Stabilise it, stop the bleeding, and go to the vet. If it is superficial, remove it with tweezers, then flush again.
Apply gentle pressure with a gauze pad to stop any bleeding. Most minor cuts will stop bleeding within a few minutes of firm, steady pressure. If the bleeding does not stop after 10 minutes of continuous pressure, you need the vet. Apply antiseptic, then cover with a non-stick pad (or gauze if you do not have non-stick) and secure it with the cohesive bandage. Wrap firmly but not so tight that you cut off circulation. You should be able to slip two fingers under the bandage.
Change the dressing daily and check for signs of infection: redness spreading from the wound, swelling, heat, discharge, or a bad smell. If you see any of these, go to the vet. Also go to the vet if the cut is deeper than a few millimetres, is on the face near the eye, or is a bite wound from another animal. Bite wounds are notorious for looking small on the surface but being much deeper underneath, and they get infected very quickly. The British Veterinary Association advises that all animal bite wounds should be seen by a vet because of the infection risk.
Choking
Choking in dogs is terrifying to witness. Your dog will paw at their mouth, gag, drool excessively, and may make panicked wheezing noises. They might also go quiet and still if their airway is completely blocked, which is actually more alarming than the noisy version.
If your dog can still breathe and is coughing, let them try to clear it themselves. Do not stick your fingers down their throat because you might push the object further in. If the dog is silent, their gums are turning blue, and they are clearly struggling to breathe, you need to act quickly.
For a small dog, pick them up with their back against your chest and give 5 sharp blows between the shoulder blades with the heel of your hand. For a larger dog, stand behind them, put your arms around their waist just below the ribcage, and thrust upwards and forwards 5 times. This is essentially the Heimlich manoeuvre adapted for a dog’s body shape. Check the mouth after each attempt to see if the object has dislodged.
If the object comes out and your dog is breathing normally, still take them to the vet. Internal damage to the throat can happen even if everything seems fine afterwards. If you cannot dislodge the object within a couple of minutes, get to the nearest vet immediately. Time is critical here, and there is a limit to what you can do without proper equipment.
Heatstroke
Heatstroke kills dogs every summer in the UK. It happens faster than most people realise, and it does not require extreme temperatures. A warm day, a closed car, or vigorous exercise during the hottest part of the day is enough. Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs are especially vulnerable, but any dog can be affected.
Signs of heatstroke include excessive panting, drooling, bright red gums, vomiting, diarrhoea, wobbly legs, confusion, and eventually collapse and seizures. If your dog’s temperature goes above 40.5 degrees Celsius, they are in serious trouble and organ damage is starting.
Move the dog to a cool place immediately. Pour cool (not freezing) water over their neck, armpits, and groin. Wet towels work, but do not wrap them completely because that traps heat. Let the water evaporate. Offer small amounts of water to drink, but do not force it. A dog with heatstroke may not be able to swallow properly. Use your thermometer to check their temperature every 5 minutes. Stop cooling when it reaches 39.4 degrees, because overcooling can cause hypothermia which is its own emergency.
Even if your dog seems to recover, take them to the vet. Heatstroke causes internal damage that is not always immediately obvious. The PDSA strongly advises veterinary check-ups after any heatstroke episode because complications can develop hours later. If your dog has been affected by heatstroke, consider adjusting their diet and exercise routine for the rest of the summer. Keeping your dog at a healthy weight makes a real difference to their ability to regulate temperature.
Seizures
Watching your dog have a seizure is deeply upsetting. They will typically lose consciousness, fall on their side, paddle their legs, and may chomp their jaws, lose bladder or bowel control, and make unusual vocalisations. The seizure usually lasts 1 to 3 minutes, though it feels much longer when it is happening.
What you should do: move furniture and objects away from the dog so they do not injure themselves. Put something soft under their head. Time the seizure with your watch or phone. Note what the legs are doing, whether both sides are affected, and how long the seizure lasts. This information is genuinely useful for your vet.
What you should not do: do not put your hands near the dog’s mouth. They will not swallow their tongue, and you are likely to get badly bitten. Dogs have no control over their jaw during a seizure. Do not try to hold them down or restrain them. Do not throw water on them. Do not try to feed them or put anything in their mouth.
When the seizure stops, the dog will enter a recovery phase called the post-ictal period. They may be confused, disoriented, temporarily blind, and unsteady on their feet. This can last minutes to hours. Stay with them, keep them warm and quiet, and speak to them calmly. Call your vet for advice. If this is the first seizure your dog has had, they need to be seen. If the seizure lasts more than 5 minutes, or if they have multiple seizures without recovering in between, this is a medical emergency and you need to go to the vet immediately.
Dog CPR basics
CPR for dogs is different from human CPR, and knowing the basics could save your dog’s life while you get to the vet. This is not a substitute for proper training, which the St John Ambulance offers through their pet first aid courses across the UK. But even a basic understanding of what to do is better than nothing.
First, check if the dog is breathing. Look at the chest, feel for air from the nose, and watch for any movement. If the dog is breathing but unconscious, place them in the recovery position on their right side, extend their head and neck to open the airway, and pull the tongue forward so it does not block the throat. Get to the vet.
If the dog is not breathing, check for a heartbeat by placing your hand on the left side of the chest just behind the elbow. If you cannot feel a heartbeat, start CPR.
For dogs under 10kg, lay them on their right side. Place one hand on the chest just behind the shoulder blades and compress firmly 30 times at a rate of about 2 per second. The chest should compress by about a third of its depth. For dogs over 10kg, the technique depends on their size. For medium to large dogs, place both hands on the widest part of the chest and compress. For barrel-chested dogs like Bulldogs, place the hands on the back near the spine and press forward towards the chest.
After 30 compressions, close the dog’s mouth and breathe into their nostrils. You should see the chest rise. Give 2 breaths, then go back to compressions. Keep going until the dog starts breathing, you reach the vet, or you have been going for 20 minutes without any response. The 20-minute rule is a practical one because beyond that point, the chances of recovery are extremely low.
The BVA recommends taking a practical pet first aid course if you can. Reading about CPR is a start, but practising on a dummy dog under instruction builds muscle memory that reading alone cannot provide. Courses run by St John Ambulance cost around £30 to £50 and take a few hours. It is money well spent.
When to call the vet instead of treating at home
A pet first aid kit is for stabilising your dog and managing minor problems until you can get professional help. It is not a replacement for a vet. Knowing the difference between something you can handle and something that needs a professional opinion is one of the most important skills a dog owner can develop.
Go straight to the vet if your dog has any of the following: difficulty breathing, heavy bleeding that does not stop with 10 minutes of pressure, suspected broken bones, eye injuries, snake bites, suspected poisoning, severe vomiting or diarrhoea (especially with blood), a swollen or bloated abdomen, a seizure lasting more than 5 minutes, or any wound that is deep, large, or caused by another animal. If your dog has eaten something from the list of poisonous plants or human food that is toxic to dogs like chocolate, grapes, or xylitol, call the vet immediately. Do not wait for symptoms to appear.
Bloat, also called gastric dilatation-volvulus, is worth knowing about because it kills fast. Large, deep-chested breeds are most at risk. The stomach fills with gas and twists, cutting off blood supply. The dog’s abdomen will swell visibly, they will try to vomit but nothing comes up, they will be restless and pace, and their gums may turn pale. This is a surgical emergency with a very narrow window. If you suspect bloat, get in the car and go. Do not stop to treat anything.
When you call the vet, be specific. Tell them what happened, when it happened, what symptoms you are seeing, and what first aid you have already done. If you took your dog’s temperature or checked their gums, mention those details. Write it all down on the notepad from your kit before you call. Vets make faster decisions with better information.
Car kit versus home kit
You need two kits, or at least one full kit for home and a smaller grab-bag version for the car. The logic is simple. Emergencies happen everywhere, and you do not want to be transferring supplies back and forth or, worse, discovering your only kit is in the boot of the car when you need it in the kitchen at 11pm on a Sunday.
Your home kit should be comprehensive. All the items on the checklist above, stored in a clearly labelled container in a place everyone in the house knows about. A kitchen cupboard or a shelf near the door are good spots. Tell your partner, your older children, and anyone who regularly looks after your dog where it is and what is inside.
Your car kit should be a cut-down version. Cohesive bandage, gauze, a few antiseptic wipes, tick remover, tweezers, gloves, saline pods, a poo bag or two, and a card with vet numbers. Pack it in a small pouch that lives permanently in the car. Do not remove it for walks and forget to put it back. The whole point is that it is always there.
If you regularly take your dog on longer trips, to the beach, to the countryside, or on holiday, consider expanding the car kit to include more supplies: extra bandages, a towel, the foil blanket, a larger quantity of saline, and spare medication if your dog needs it. A dog that gets injured 50 miles from home is in a trickier position than one that gets injured 500 metres from the vet, so plan accordingly.
Where to buy pet first aid supplies in the UK
Amazon UK is the most convenient option for most people. They stock the Lifesystems, Kurgo, and Reliance Medical kits, plus virtually every individual item you could need. The reviews are helpful for checking whether a product actually works, and delivery is fast with Prime. If you are building your own kit, Amazon is a good one-stop shop for bandages, gauze, antiseptic, thermometers, and tick removers.
Pets at Home stocks a limited range of first aid kits and supplies in their larger stores. The selection is smaller than Amazon, but if you want to see a product before buying it, this is your best high-street option. Some independent pet shops also carry first aid supplies, though the range varies enormously.
Online veterinary pharmacies like VetUK and Animed sell proper medical-grade supplies. The prices are competitive, and the products are the same ones your vet uses. Worth a look if you are buying in bulk or want higher quality than what the consumer kits offer. Medical supply websites like First Aid Warehouse sell cohesive bandage, gauze, and other items in bulk at lower prices than pet-specific retailers. The products are identical; the branding is just different.
If you want to take a pet first aid course, check the St John Ambulance website for courses in your area. They run them regularly across the UK, and the practical skills you learn are worth far more than any amount of kit. The PDSA and some local veterinary practices also run first aid workshops. Search online for “pet first aid course near me” and see what comes up.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use human first aid supplies on my dog?
Some human supplies are fine. Sterile gauze, cohesive bandage, microporous tape, and saline solution are all identical whether they are labelled for humans or animals. Antiseptic creams and wipes are where you need to be careful. Many human antiseptic products contain ingredients like tea tree oil, iodine, or alcohol that are either toxic to dogs or cause stinging and irritation. Stick to products labelled as safe for veterinary use, or ask your vet for a recommendation. Never give your dog human painkillers like paracetamol or ibuprofen. Both are toxic to dogs and can be fatal.
How often should I check and restock my first aid kit?
Check it every 3 months. Replace anything you have used, check expiry dates on antiseptic products and saline pods, and make sure nothing has degraded from heat or moisture. If your kit lives in the car, check it more often because temperature changes are harder on supplies. Saline pods can leak, bandages can lose their stickiness, and adhesive can dry out in a hot car over summer.
Should I include a muzzle in my first aid kit?
Yes. Even the calmest, gentlest dog can bite when they are in pain or frightened. A soft muzzle that slips over the snout is quick to put on and does not hurt the dog. Use it for the few minutes you need to treat a wound or move an injured dog, then take it off. A muzzle is for everyone’s safety. The dog is not being punished. You are protecting yourself so you can help them. If you do not have a muzzle, a bandage rolled and tied gently around the snout works as an emergency substitute, but a proper muzzle is better and more comfortable for the dog.
What temperature is a fever in a dog?
Normal body temperature for a dog is 38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celsius. Anything above 39.4 is considered a fever. If your dog’s temperature reaches 40 degrees or above, contact your vet. The only reliable way to check is with a rectal thermometer. Ear thermometers exist for dogs but they are less accurate. A rectal digital thermometer is cheap, fast, and reliable.
How do I remove a tick from my dog?
Use a tick removal tool, not your fingers or tweezers. Slide the tool under the tick’s body as close to the skin as possible, then twist gently and lift. The tick should come away whole. Check that the head is not still embedded. If it is, do not dig around trying to get it out. Clean the area with antiseptic and monitor it. If it becomes red or swollen, see your vet. Never burn a tick off, smother it with Vaseline, or pull it with tweezers. These methods can cause the tick to regurgitate its stomach contents into the wound, which increases the risk of disease transmission.
Can I bandage a dog’s leg at home?
Yes, for minor cuts and scrapes. Clean the wound, apply a gauze pad, and wrap with cohesive bandage. Wrap firmly enough to stay on but loose enough that you can fit two fingers underneath. Do not use sticky adhesive bandage directly on fur because it will pull and hurt when you remove it. Always put a gauze layer between the wound and the bandage. Change the bandage daily, or sooner if it gets wet or dirty. Check the toes below the bandage. If they swell, feel cold, or the dog keeps licking at them, the bandage is too tight and needs to be loosened or removed.
What should I do if my dog eats something poisonous?
Call your vet immediately. Tell them what the dog ate, how much, and when. If you have the packaging, bring it with you or read the ingredients over the phone. Do not try to make your dog vomit unless your vet specifically tells you to. Some substances cause more damage coming back up than they do going down. The vet may ask you to bring the dog in straight away, or they may give you specific instructions to follow at home. Time matters with poisoning, so do not wait to see if the dog seems okay. Some toxins take hours to show symptoms, by which point the damage is done.
Is a pet first aid course worth doing?
Absolutely. Reading about CPR and wound care is useful, but practising on a dummy dog with an instructor watching and correcting you is a different experience entirely. A practical course builds confidence and muscle memory. The St John Ambulance pet first aid course is the most widely available in the UK. It takes a few hours, costs about £30 to £50, and covers CPR, choking, bleeding, shock, burns, seizures, and more. If you cannot find a St John Ambulance course near you, some local vet practices and private trainers run similar sessions.
My dog has a grass seed in their ear. What should I do?
Grass seeds are a massive problem in the UK, especially in late summer. They get into ears, between toes, up nostrils, and even under eyelids. If you can see the seed and it is accessible, you can try removing it with tweezers. Have someone hold the dog steady, use your torch to see clearly, and grip the seed firmly. If the dog is shaking their head constantly, the ear looks red inside, or there is discharge, the seed may have migrated deeper and you need the vet. Do not poke around in the ear canal blindly. Grass seeds can travel a long way into the ear and cause serious damage if left. The same applies to grass seeds between toes. If the dog is licking a paw obsessively and you cannot find the seed, the vet needs to have a look.
How do I know if my dog is in shock?
Signs of shock include pale or white gums, rapid heartbeat, weak pulse, cold extremities (ears and paws), shallow breathing, lethargy, and collapse. Shock can follow trauma, severe bleeding, allergic reactions, poisoning, or any serious medical event. If you think your dog is in shock, keep them warm with the foil blanket from your kit, raise their hindquarters slightly, and get to the vet immediately. Shock is a life-threatening condition that requires professional treatment. You cannot fix it with a first aid kit, but keeping the dog warm and getting them to the vet fast gives them the best chance.
Being prepared means knowing that if something does happen, you have the tools and the basic knowledge to handle the first few minutes before a vet can take over. A decent pet first aid kit costs less than a bag of decent dry dog food, and it lasts for years. There is no good reason not to have one.
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