Crate training is one of the most useful things you can do for your puppy. Done properly, a crate becomes your dog’s safe space: a quiet, comfortable den where they can sleep, relax, and feel secure. Done poorly, it becomes a source of stress and a battle of wills that neither of you enjoys.
This guide walks you through the entire process from day one, covering how to choose the right crate, how to introduce it gradually, how to build up to longer periods, and what to do when things don’t go to plan. Everything here is based on positive reinforcement methods, which is the approach recommended by the RSPCA and the British Veterinary Association.
Why crate train your puppy?
A lot of people feel uncomfortable about using a crate at first. It looks like a cage, and the idea of locking a puppy in a box goes against the grain for many owners. I understand that. But a crate used correctly is very different from a cage used for punishment.
Dogs are den animals by nature. They seek out small, enclosed spaces when they want to rest or feel safe. A crate replicates that instinct. Your puppy isn’t thinking “I’m trapped.” They’re thinking “this is my cosy space and nothing can bother me here.”
Practical benefits include house training (puppies naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area), safe confinement when you can’t supervise (prevents chewing furniture, cables, and anything else your puppy finds interesting), a safe space during travel, reduced separation anxiety, and faster settling at night. Puppies that are crate trained tend to be calmer, more confident dogs because they’ve learned how to settle themselves rather than relying on constant attention.
Choosing the right crate
Getting the right size matters. The crate needs to be big enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down stretched out. But it shouldn’t be so large that they can use one end as a toilet and sleep in the other. That defeats the house training benefit entirely.
For most breeds, a crate that’s around 60 to 90cm long works well for a puppy arriving at 8 weeks. If you’re buying for a larger breed that will grow considerably, look for a crate with a divider panel. This lets you make the internal space smaller while the puppy is little, then expand it as they grow. You get one crate that lasts through to adulthood.
The Pet Gear Easy Crate is a popular choice in the UK. It’s a fold-down wire crate with a removable divider, a plastic base tray, and carry handles. It comes in sizes from small (61cm) up to extra-large (107cm). Prices range from roughly £25 to £50 depending on size.
The Amazon Basics Foldable Metal Dog Crate is the budget option. Simple, functional, and significantly cheaper at around £20 to £35. It has the same divider panel system and folds flat for storage. It’s less sturdy than some premium options but perfectly adequate for most puppies.
For something more visually appealing, the wooden dog crate end table on AliExpress doubles as a piece of furniture. It’s more expensive and takes longer to deliver, but if you don’t want a wire cage in your living room, it’s a neater solution. Prices start around £60 to £80.
Where to put the crate
Location matters more than most people realise. The crate needs to be in a spot where your puppy can feel part of the family without being in the middle of chaos.
The living room is ideal during the day. Your puppy can see you, hear you, and smell you, which reduces anxiety. At night, move the crate to your bedroom for the first few weeks. Puppies that can hear and smell their owner at night settle much faster than those left alone in a kitchen or utility room. Once your puppy is sleeping through the night reliably, you can gradually move the crate to wherever you want it long-term.
Avoid putting the crate near radiators or in direct sunlight. Also avoid drafty spots near doors. The ideal position is against a wall or in a corner, which gives the puppy the feeling of being enclosed and protected on at least two sides.
Drape a blanket or towel over the top and sides of a wire crate. This creates a more den-like environment and blocks out visual stimuli that might keep your puppy awake or on alert. Leave the front open so they can see out. Some puppies prefer the blanket, others don’t. Try both and see what yours prefers.
What to put inside the crate
The bedding you choose makes a difference to how quickly your puppy accepts the crate. Use something soft but practical. Puppies have accidents, and anything inside the crate needs to be washable.
A veterinary bedding fleece pad is a good bet. These are designed to wick moisture away from the surface, keeping your puppy dry even if they have a small accident. They’re machine washable, hard-wearing, and cost around £10 to £15 for a size that fits most crates.
The Fleece Dog Crate Bed by Bedsure is another popular option on Amazon UK. It’s a simple fleece cushion that fits standard crate sizes, machine washable, and costs around £12 to £18. Soft, comfortable, and does the job.
For something more durable, look at waterproof dog crate mats on AliExpress. These have a waterproof backing that prevents any accidents soaking through to the crate floor. They’re cheap (around £5 to £10 including delivery) and come in sizes to fit most crates.
Don’t overload the crate with toys and blankets. A bed, maybe one chew toy, and a worn item of your clothing (your scent is comforting to a puppy) is enough. Too much stuff makes the crate feel cramped and gives your puppy more things to chew on in the middle of the night.
Step-by-step crate training process
This is a gradual process. Rushing it is the single biggest mistake owners make with crate training. Your puppy needs to associate the crate with positive experiences before you start closing the door.
Step 1: Introduce the crate (days 1 to 3)
Set the crate up with the bedding inside and the door wedged open so it can’t accidentally close. Let your puppy investigate it in their own time. Don’t force them in. Don’t pick them up and put them inside. Just leave it there.
Put treats near the entrance. Then put treats just inside. Then put treats further in. Let your puppy go in voluntarily to get the treats. Some puppies will walk straight in. Others will take a day or two to build up the courage. Both reactions are normal.
Feed your puppy their meals near the crate, gradually moving the bowl closer to the entrance and eventually inside the crate over the first few days. Eating inside the crate builds a positive association with being in there.
Step 2: Close the door briefly (days 3 to 5)
Once your puppy is happily going in and out of the crate, start closing the door for very short periods. A few seconds at first. Close it while they’re eating a meal, open it as soon as they finish. Close it while they have a chew toy, open it before they finish the chew.
Gradually increase the duration. 10 seconds. 30 seconds. A minute. Stay in the room the entire time. Sit near the crate, talk to your puppy, drop treats through the bars. They need to learn that the door closing doesn’t mean you’re leaving.
If your puppy whines or scratches at the door, wait for a moment of quiet before opening it. If you open the door while they’re whining, you teach them that whining works. Even waiting 3 seconds of quiet before opening makes a difference. This is hard because you want to comfort them, but the occasional short whine won’t harm them and you’re building a skill that benefits them long-term.
Step 3: Build up alone time (days 5 to 14)
Once your puppy is comfortable with the door closed while you’re in the room, start moving away. Walk to the other side of the room. Step out of sight for a few seconds. Come straight back. Gradually increase the time you’re out of sight.
By the end of the first two weeks, most puppies can handle 10 to 15 minutes in the crate while you’re in another room. Some pick it up faster. Some take longer. Go at your puppy’s pace, not a timetable.
Step 4: Night time crating (from day 1, building up)
Start with the crate next to your bed. Put your puppy in with a chew toy and a worn item of your clothing. Close the door. They will probably whine. This is normal.
Puppies under 12 weeks old physically cannot hold their bladder through the night. Expect to take them out once or twice during the night for toilet breaks. Take them out quietly, no play, no fuss, straight back in the crate. If you make night time exciting, your puppy will start waking up on purpose.
By 12 to 14 weeks, most puppies can go 6 to 7 hours overnight without a toilet break. By 4 to 5 months, they should sleep through the night entirely. This varies by breed and individual, but those are reasonable expectations.
Step 5: Leaving the house (from week 3 onwards)
Only start leaving your puppy in the crate when you go out once they’re comfortable being crated for 30 minutes while you’re home. Start with very short absences: pop to the shops for 15 minutes. Build up gradually to an hour, then two hours.
A general guideline for how long a puppy can be crated: add one hour to their age in months. So a 2-month-old puppy can manage roughly 3 hours. A 3-month-old puppy can manage roughly 4 hours. An adult dog can manage a full working day, though this should be avoided if possible (8+ hours in a crate is a lot for any dog).
Crate training problems and how to solve them
Whining and crying
Some whining is normal during the first few nights. Your puppy has just left their littermates and everything is new and scary. But persistent, frantic crying that lasts more than 20 to 30 minutes might mean you’ve moved too fast.
Go back a step. If you were leaving the room, stay in the room. If you were closing the door, leave it open. Rebuild from where your puppy is comfortable rather than pushing through the distress.
A covered crate (blanket over the top) helps. A ticking clock or a radio playing quietly can provide white noise that mimics litter sounds. Some owners use an Adaptil diffuser, which releases calming dog pheromones. These aren’t magic, but they can take the edge off a stressed puppy.
Refusing to go in
If your puppy won’t enter the crate voluntarily, you’ve probably moved too fast or had a negative experience (being locked in too long, feeling trapped). Back up. Remove the door entirely for a few days. Feed all meals in the crate. Put high-value treats (small pieces of chicken or cheese) inside. Make the crate the best place in the house to be.
Never force your puppy into the crate. Never drag them. This creates a lasting negative association that’s very hard to undo.
Toileting in the crate
If your puppy is soiling in the crate, the crate is probably too big or you’re leaving them too long. Make the crate smaller with the divider panel. Take them out more frequently. And remember: puppies under 10 weeks old have almost no bladder control. Accidents at this age are normal and not a training failure.
Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner (like Simple Solution on Amazon UK, around £10 to £15). Standard household cleaners leave behind scent markers that encourage the puppy to soil in the same spot again. Enzymatic cleaners break down the proteins in urine and faeces that your puppy can smell even if you can’t.
Barking in the crate
Barking is different from whining. Some puppies bark when crated because they’re bored, frustrated, or want attention. The approach is the same: wait for quiet, then reward. Don’t open the crate door while they’re barking. If you do, they learn that barking = freedom. Wait for 5 seconds of quiet, then open the door and give them calm attention.
Recommended crate training resources
If you want a more detailed guide to work through alongside this article, The Happy Puppy Handbook by Pippa Mattinson is one of the best UK-specific puppy training books. It has a thorough section on crate training with a clear schedule. Around £10 to £12 on Amazon UK.
Total Recall by Pippa Mattinson is another excellent UK training book that covers recall, crate training, and general puppy management. It’s practical, well-written, and avoids the gimmicky approaches you find in some training books.
For crate training accessories on a budget, AliExpress has a range of wooden and fabric crate covers that are cheaper than the UK equivalents. Delivery takes longer (usually 2 to 3 weeks) but the savings are substantial if you’re not in a rush.
How long should a puppy stay in a crate?
This depends on the puppy’s age, but here’s a rough guide for maximum continuous crate time during the day:
- 8 to 10 weeks: 30 to 60 minutes
- 10 to 12 weeks: 1 to 2 hours
- 3 to 4 months: 2 to 3 hours
- 5 to 6 months: 3 to 4 hours
- 7 months plus: 4 to 6 hours (maximum, and not ideal as a daily routine)
These are maximums, not targets. Your puppy should spend plenty of time outside the crate playing, socialising, and bonding with you. The crate is a resting place, not a full-time babysitter.
Overnight is different. Puppies sleep for long stretches, so overnight crating of 7 to 8 hours (with toilet breaks for young puppies) is fine once they’re comfortable with the crate.
Crate training and house training combined
Crate training goes hand in hand with house training because puppies naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area. Take your puppy outside to toilet immediately after every crate session: when they wake up, after eating, and after play. Reward them with praise and a treat every time they toilet outside.
For a detailed house training guide including training pads, check out our best puppy training pads UK article.
Frequently asked questions
Is crate training cruel?
No, not when done correctly. A crate is a safe, comfortable space that appeals to a dog’s natural denning instinct. The RSPCA and BVA both support crate training when it’s done positively and the dog is not confined for excessive periods. What’s cruel is locking a dog in a crate for 10 hours a day, using the crate as punishment, or forcing a distressed dog into one. The crate should always be associated with positive things: treats, meals, comfort, and rest.
When can I stop using the crate?
Many dogs use their crate voluntarily for years, even after they’re fully house trained and trustworthy in the house. The door can be left open so they go in and out freely. If you want to phase out the crate entirely, most dogs are ready between 1 and 2 years old, once they’re house trained and past the destructive chewing phase. Remove the crate gradually rather than suddenly. Start by leaving the door open all the time, then move it to a different room, then remove it entirely.
My puppy hates the crate. Should I give up?
Don’t give up, but do slow down. Most crate resistance comes from moving too fast. Go back to the basics: open door, treats inside, meals in the crate. Build the positive association back up. If your puppy has had a genuinely traumatic experience with confinement, or shows signs of severe anxiety (panting, drooling, self-harming), consult a qualified behaviourist. The Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors can help you find someone in your area.
Should I put water in the crate?
A small bowl of water is fine for longer crate sessions (over 2 hours) and overnight. Remove it for shorter daytime sessions to reduce the chance of spills and accidents. A crate-mounted water bowl that clips to the side is neater than a free-standing bowl that can be knocked over.
Can I use a playpen instead of a crate?
Yes, and many puppy owners use both. A playpen gives the puppy more space during the day while still providing safe containment. A crate provides the den-like sleeping area. Some crates fit inside playpens, which is a neat setup. Playpens don’t have the same house training benefits as crates because there’s enough space for the puppy to soil in one corner and sleep in another. But for daytime supervision, they’re very useful.
The bottom line
Crate training is patience in action. It’s slow, it’s repetitive, and there will be nights when you’re standing in your pyjamas at 3am wondering if any of this is working. It is. Keep going.
Start with an open crate and treats. Build up gradually. Close the door for seconds, then minutes. Leave the room briefly, then for longer. Follow your puppy’s pace, not a fixed schedule. And never use the crate as punishment.
Within 2 to 4 weeks, most puppies will voluntarily enter their crate to sleep and relax. Within a couple of months, you’ll have a dog that settles calmly, travels safely, and has a secure space that’s entirely their own. That’s worth the effort.
